Training Guides
Aggression, Fear and Reactivity
Many dogs, even those who are great with others off leash, may be dog reactive while on-leash. Leashes not only cause unusual body posture and greeting behavior, but many dogs are frustrated with the restriction of the leash. Others who are fearful, may feel trapped which can lead to an explosive display of defensive behavior.
- When you pass another dog, say your dog’s name and reward for looking at you. Some dogs do better if you do this while moving; others do best if you stop and ask them to sit and focus on you.
- Use high value rewards, such as small pieces of hotdog, cheese, or meat. Reserve these treats for on-leash dog work only!
- Gauge your dog’s threshold; If he can maintain control around other dogs at 10 feet but loses it at 9, start where he will be successful, working up as he improves while keeping him under threshold.
- Use a head halter or no-pull harness if you have trouble maintaining control of your dog around others.
- As he improves, gradually decrease the distance from the other dog while asking him to maintain focus on you.
- Don’t allow your dog to greet another dog if either dog is agitated and not relaxed.
- When both dogs are calm and you would like to allow them to meet, try walking the dogs together first, several feet apart and allowing them to briefly move closer to each other if they are both calm and relaxed.
- Greetings should never be done head on, try from the side, or at an angle.
- Be sure your dog is getting proper amounts of exercise. The more pent-up energy he has, the more likely he is to react.
- If you encounter a constant stream of dogs on your neighborhood walks, start in a quieter location with fewer dogs and more open space or walk during less popular walk times.
- It is a normal human reaction to try to avoid other dogs while on walks if your dog is reactive. However, this is not teaching your dog the correct behavior! Instead try working with your dog at a greater distance from others, where you both can be successful
Behavior basics
A crate provides a safe, comfortable environment for your puppy to rest. It also gives you a place to manage your puppy to avoid potty accidents and normal puppy behavior like chewing. Follow these tips to get your puppy off to a good start in the crate.
- The crate should be large enough for your puppy to lay down, turn around and stand up. Use crate dividers as a temporary way to make the area smaller as needed.
- Begin by encouraging your puppy to go into the crate by tossing treats inside and praising when he goes inside to retrieve them. Do not close the crate door yet. As he is calm in the crate begin to close the door very briefly, gradually increasing the time the door is closed. If he begins to become distressed in the crate you are going too fast – shorten the time the door is closed and try again.
- As your puppy becomes more comfortable, put her in the crate for short periods with a favorite stuffed food toy or chew. Gradually increase the time in the crate, ensuring she stays relaxed.
- Feed all meals inside the crate.
- Never use the crate as a time out or punishment place.
- Be sure your puppy is getting proper exercise and time out of the crate. If you ask her to spend excessive amounts of time inside, it will not be a fun place for her.
- Teach children and other pets that the crate is a safe place for your puppy where he is not to be disturbed.
- Puppies naturally want to keep their sleeping area clean. If she is pottying inside her crate, it is either too large or you have left her alone for an excessive amount of time. To prevent pottying in the crate try making the crate smaller and limit the time inside between potty breaks.
5 Rewards for Strong Behavior That Aren’t Treats!
Treats have their place in training and are usually the fastest and easiest way to reward your dog when you are teaching new behaviors. As those behaviors strengthen, incorporate life rewards to strengthen behavior and reduce your need for treats. Simply ask your dog for a behavior they know (like sit) and reward them with one of the life rewards below.
- Petting
- Praise or affection
- Walks
- Meals
- Playtime
Rules of Recall
- Use high value rewards to reinforce a great recall!
- Only call your dog when you know they will come.
- Start in low distraction areas (like in the house).
- Don’t call your dog and then punish him or do anything unpleasant!
- Don’t repeatedly call your dog if he doesn’t come when asked.
Fun and Games
The Importance of Exercise
Exercise is crucial to keeping your dog happy and healthy. Not only is proper exercise vital to keeping your dog’s heart healthy, but it is also key in preventing behavior issues. If Fido is experiencing issues like anxiety, digging, destructive behavior or excessive barking one of the first things to consider is if he is getting enough exercise and mental stimulation. Training alone won’t be enough if your born-to-work Border Collie is only getting a leisurely stroll around the block with no job to do, but a proper fitness regime (combined with a training plan and mental stimulation) will help you tackle troublesome behaviors.
Despite common misconceptions, having a large yard does not equal a well-exercised dog. In fact, after the initial perimeter scan most pups will choose to come back inside, or weather permitting, take a nap.
How much physical exercise your dog needs varies based on breed, age and general health. For small, less active breeds, 30 minutes may suffice but in general one hour per day of exercise is required to keep your furry friend fit.
Some Exercise Stats:
- 54% of dogs are now considered overweight or obese; heart disease and diabetes are also on the rise according to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention.
- Sheepdogs on a farm may run or walk 90 miles per day.
- The average dog-walking pace is one mile per 25 minutes, but in order for your pup to achieve an aerobic state you should set your pace at 15-20 minutes per mile.
- A pet dog with no other dogs around and no humans encouraging her to be active will spend 80% of her time resting; 60% for those with a canine companion.
The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Your Dog
Did you know working your dog’s mind is just as important as physical exercise? Mental stimulation builds your dog’s confidence, decreases stress, tires them out and teaches them to problem solve. Engaging your dog with training and games strengthens your bond and can reduce undesirable behaviors like chewing, excessive barking and overexcitement.
Check out these easy ways to keep your dog’s mind active.
- Offer meals from snuffle mats or food puzzles instead of a bowl.
- Provide frozen Kongs, lick mats and safe chews to occupy your pup while you work.
- Pick a new route for your walk or go for a sniff walk and let your dog’s nose lead the way!
- Short, fun training sessions create a well-behaved dog and tire them out.
- Nose work games like finding the treat in a muffin tin are great for rainy days.
- Rotate your pup’s toys. Put half away and swap them every other week to keep them engaged.
- Play 101 Things to Do with a Box – reward your dog for every novel engagement with an empty box.
Puppy Training
Puppies use their mouths as a way to explore their environments. Play biting typically occurs out of boredom and curiosity, as well as wanting to play.
- Teach your puppy bite inhibition (a soft mouth). Start by only reacting to the hardest bites by saying “ouch” and redirecting to a toy or chew.
- If you are playing with your puppy and he continues to bite you after redirecting, end the game for 30-60 seconds. If he continues to bite, walk away.
- As your puppy begins to understand, use “ouch” for softer and softer biting, until your puppy is no longer biting at all.
- Use bitter apple on shoes etc to deter your puppy from biting these items.
- Make sure to provide your puppy with appropriate chews such as bully sticks.
- Teach your puppy “leave it” so you can communicate when they have an inappropriate object in their mouth.
- Use long toys to play with your puppy rather than your hands. Your puppy’s teeth should not be on human skin or clothing!
It is natural for puppies to chew; Not only are they teething but they explore the world with their mouths. Plus, it is fun, helps burn excess energy and fights boredom! Even adult dogs have a strong need to chew. The key is not to eliminate your dog’s chewing habits but to teach them what things are appropriate to chew.
- Always provide access to appropriate chew items, 5-10 toys and chew options at a time.
- Rotate chews and toys every 1-2 weeks to keep his interest.
- Provide bully sticks, split antlers and Himalayan chews.
- Set your puppy up for success! Puppy proof your home by picking up toys, shoes, clothing and anything your puppy might decide is his new favorite chew toy!
- Avoid rawhide; Pieces can break off and swell after swallowing, creating a choking hazard.
- Use Bitter Apple spray on furniture, plants etc. that your puppy chews.
- If you catch your dog chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her, say “leave it” and redirect her to an appropriate chew item.
- Provide your puppy adequate exercise and training to keep her mind busy. A bored pup is a pup getting into trouble!
- If your puppy is teething, provide frozen ropes or teething bones to soothe gums.
- Create good habits! Don’t provide puppy with old shoes to chew. He won’t distinguish between “old” and your favorite pair later!
- Use gates and pens to manage your puppy as needed to prevent inappropriate chewing.
Puppy House Training – Creating a Schedule is the Key to Success
Sample Schedule:
Wake up – take your puppy to potty directly from the crate.
Allow 30 minutes supervised playtime/training if he potties. If he doesn’t potty return him to the crate or tie his leash to your pants and offer another potty break in 30 minutes.
Breakfast and water in crate
Potty break 30 minutes after breakfast
Rest in the crate or supervised free time
Mid-morning – take your puppy to the potty spot on leash. Praise and reward him for going after he is finished.
30-60 minutes of supervised playtime/training if he potties.
Rest in the crate or supervised free time
Lunchtime – feed your puppy her lunch and offer water.
Potty break 30 minutes after breakfast
30-60 minutes of supervised playtime/training if she potties.
Rest in the crate or supervised free time
Midafternoon – offer water and bring your puppy outside on leash for a potty break.
30-60 minutes of supervised playtime/training if he potties.
Rest in the crate or supervised free time
Dinner – feed your puppy his last meal of the day and offer water.
Potty break 30 minutes after breakfast
30-60 minutes of supervised playtime/training if he potties.
Rest in the crate or supervised free time
Evening – offer your pup water and bring her outside on leash for a potty break.
30-60 minutes of supervised playtime/training if he potties.
Rest in the crate or supervised free time
Bedtime – take your puppy out on leash to potty.
Put pup to bed in her crate.
*Potty breaks during the night. Depending on his age and breed your puppy may not yet be able to physically make it through the night without a potty break. As needed, set an alarm (or your pup may wake you) to take her out for a potty break. Bring her out on leash, allow her to potty and immediately return her to the crate. Do not play with your puppy in the middle of the night – we do not want to teach her to wake you up for a midnight snuggle session!
*If you work outside of the home you can set up a playpen for your puppy with access to a pee pad if you are gone longer than he can physically hold it.
Getting Your Dog Started Off On the Right Paw
Socialization
- Socialization is imperative to having a happy, well behaved and well-adjusted adult dog.
- Without proper socialization, young pups can grow up to be dogs who suffer from fear, anxiety and aggression.
- The key window for socialization is between 4-14 weeks of age; During this time, it is vital to safely expose your puppy to a variety of people, animals, substrates, sounds, sights and new situations.
- Follow the Rule of Sevens. By the time your puppy is 7 weeks old he should have:
- Been in at least 7 different locations (yard, bedroom, kitchen, neighbor’s yard etc)
- Eaten from at least 7 different containers
- Met and been pet by at least 7 different people
- Taken at least 7 one-mile car rides
- Been in a crate at least 7 times
- Played with at least 7 kinds of toys
- Walked on at least 7 different substrates (grass, concrete, gravel etc)
- Been taken somewhere alone (with no other dogs) at least 7 times
- Been exposed to at least 7 challenges (climbed stairs, gone through a tunnel, climbed on a box etc)
- To properly socialize your puppy within the critical socialization period, he will not yet have received all his shots. UC Davis Veterinary Medicine states that “the risk of your puppy developing serious behavior problems from being poorly socialized is far greater than that of infectious disease.” Don’t wait! Talk to your vet about your puppy’s vaccine schedule and ways to safely socialize along the way.
Socializing your puppy now will help him to become the best dog he can be!
- Puppies naturally want to be clean and eat and sleep in an unsoiled area.
- Young puppies have limited control over their bladder and bowels. Their ability to “hold it” increases with age.
- Establish a schedule when potty training your puppy and pick one spot to potty outside.
- Take your puppy to this spot (on leash) every one to two hours or after waking, eating, drinking, playing or stressful events. Do not wait for him to signal that he needs to go outside.
- Stand with your puppy on leash in the potty area. Give him up to five minutes maximum. Do not play with your puppy at this time; play after he has gone.
- When she potties in the correct area, allow her to finish, then praise and reward with a treat. The treat must be given immediately, not when you get back inside the house.
- After pottying, she can have about one hour of supervised play or training time inside. Use gates or pens to keep her out of trouble.
- If he does not potty after five minutes, bring him inside and crate him for 30 minutes. Repeat until he is successful. Do not allow him freedom in the house if he does not potty. You can also use a leash tied to you to keep your puppy where you can supervise.
- If your puppy is pottying in the crate, it is either too large (use dividers to make it smaller) or you are asking her to hold it for too long. A guideline is she can hold it for one to two hours for each month of age.
- If you must leave your puppy for extended periods of time, leave him in a pen or small room with access to potty pads. Do not use potty pads at any other time unless you plan to use them for your dog’s entire life.
- If you catch your puppy having an accident, interrupt her by clapping or making a loud noise, pick her up and carry outside to the potty area. Reward for finishing in the proper area.
- Do not rub your puppy’s nose in it, hit or reprimand your puppy. If you find an accident after the fact, it is too late to teach your puppy the correct behavior at that time. This is a clue that your puppy needs more supervision, or a smaller area.
- Create a feeding schedule for your puppy rather than allowing her to graze. Feed three times a day (until six months old) and remove any remaining food after 30 minutes. Feed meals at least four hours before bedtime and remove the water bowl two hours before bed.
- If your puppy becomes restless during the night, he may have to potty. Pick up him and carry outside, give him five minutes to potty and then put him right back to bed. Do not play with or cuddle your puppy in the middle of the night or you will teach him to wake you up for attention.
- Use a potty chart to help determine your puppy’s natural potty schedule.
Rescue Dogs
Congratulations (and thank you!) for adopting a dog! Bringing home your new addition can be exciting (for you and your new pup). Taking the time to prepare can help the transition be as smooth as possible for you both.
Take a minute to imagine one day you are going about your normal business when someone comes and collects you and a few of your things and puts you on an airplane. When you land you are met by some friendly people, whose language is a bit different than the one you’re used to. They drive you to a new house and are so excited to introduce you to their friends and family that they host a big party to welcome you to the neighborhood. You don’t speak the same language as the new people you meet, so you only understand part of what is going on. Everyone is friendly and rushing up to hug you, it’s a bit overwhelming. The food is different here and the mealtimes aren’t what you’re used to. Back home you loved going to yoga, but you aren’t sure where the studio is here, or how to get to the local grocery store. You are trying your best to learn and communicate with the locals in your new environment, but you find yourself having moments of miscommunication. You think you might like it here in time, but you are a bit homesick.
How would you feel in this situation? A bit anxious or afraid? Excited? Stressed or overwhelmed? Could you imagine you might not behave as you normally would at home in certain situations?
This is what dogs are navigating when they come to a new home. They are in a new place with different people, rules and routines, schedules and smells. All of this change can cause some dogs to shut down, while others become overstimulated and excited. Things they were pros at in their foster homes, like house training or being left alone, may be a challenge for them in a new place during the transition period.
You may notice some of the following during the transition period. These behaviors can be a normal part of settling in:
- Accidents in the house
- Being wary or nervous
- Being overexcited or struggling to relax
- Separation distress
This doesn’t mean your new dog isn’t what you expected, it means they’re adjusting to a big change!
Tips to navigate the transition:
Schedules for Success
- Dogs thrive on consistency and structure. Set up a schedule for your dog and stick to it for the first few weeks (at least).
- When you first arrive home take your dog out on leash to the place you want them to potty and patiently wait with them for a few minutes until they go. Take them out to this place every few hours, or after meals, naps or playtime. Praise or reward them for going!
- If your dog doesn’t potty, keep them on leash and supervise inside to help avoid accidents.
- Walk your dog around the house on leash to allow him to investigate the new space.
- Stay consistent with your rules and schedules but hold off on training new behaviors for at least the first few days. When you start training, keep sessions short and positive!
- Create a meal schedule – put the bowl down in a quiet place twice a day – picking up the bowl (whether the food is gone or not) after 30 minutes and try again at the next feeding time.
- Use gates, crates (if your pup is crate trained) and doors to keep him out of areas you don’t want him to have access to. Limit access to spaces in the house at first, especially if your dog is having accidents, gradually allowing them more freedom as they are successful.
Other Pets in the Home
- Introduce your dog to other pets in the home on leash, on neutral territory, preferably after they’ve had a chance to potty and check out the house. Going for a walk can be a great way to introduce dogs to each other (with each dog having their own human handler).
- Feed your dog separately from other animals in the house and be mindful of giving toys or treats with other animals nearby.
- Do not leave your dog unattended with other animals in the house until she is settled in and you are more familiar with their interactions. Use gates or crates to separate when you aren’t supervising. Understand that your pets are getting to know each other as well and it is normal for there to be a period of transition.
Keep Things Calm
- Avoid introducing her to people or pets who aren’t part of the household for at least a couple of weeks to allow her time to settle in. Having a party to welcome her home is fun for the humans but often overwhelming for our dogs and can result in anxious or reactive behavior (remember, they are in a new place and trying to figure out where they fit)!
- Keep walks calm. If your new pup is reactive to other dogs on leash or seems more excited after a walk than before, try walking in a quiet area or playing in the backyard or house until they’ve had a bit of time to settle in. Understand that your dog may want to spend a lot of time investigating on walks while they check out their new neighborhood.
- Provide mental stimulation for your new dog. This can be done with food puzzles or snuffle mats, chews, and sniff walks. Start with a low to medium difficulty for food puzzles to ensure they aren’t creating frustration.
- Review the body language tips and listen to what your dog is communicating! If she is fearful or unsure, stop what you are doing. For dogs who are nervous about the humans in the house it can be helpful for them to walk around with a pocket full of treats, tossing one to your dog when they pass by. Do not try to force her to interact or allow petting; Time and patience are your key to developing trust!
- Sharing the feeding, playing, training and walking chores with family members can help to develop a bond with each member, rather than just the person who cares for your dog.
Ask for Help
Reach out to Melissa for help with settling in with your new dog!